The Sephardic synagogues of Izmir make for an interesting route not only for travellers of the Jewish faith, but also for all lovers of culture and, in particular, for tourists with a special sensitivity for knowledge of religions and spirituality as experienced by those who practise them. In this post, we show you why so many people visit these synagogues and which ones make up the route.
Why take a route through the Sephardic synagogues of Izmir
We speak of the Sephardic synagogues of Izmir because they are sacred spaces linked to the Jews expelled from the Iberian Peninsula at the end of the 15th century. Let us remember that, for Jews, Sepharad refers to the entire peninsula, so “Sephardic” refers to those who came from what are now Spain and Portugal.
That expulsion was a truly traumatic episode for that Jewish community, which was forced to seek a new home in many other parts of the world, such as North Africa or South America. However, the Ottoman Empire was the main recipient of Sephardim, as the sultans encouraged their welcome, aware of the great abilities of its members. Of all the cities in that empire, Istanbul and Izmir were probably the two that received the most Sephardim.
And today, it is in the latter where their footprint is most visible. For this reason, below we list four synagogues that even today are still active and can be visited, interesting not only for their architecture and decoration, but also for the stories told by their walls and furnishings.
Bikur Holim Synagogue
This synagogue, located at number 44 Eşrefpaşa Caddesi, was built in the first decades of the 18th century by Salomon de Ciaves, a Dutch Jew of German origin, as can be inferred from his surname. In fact, at first it was known as the “Claves Synagogue”, but it was given this new name, meaning “care for the sick”, because it served as a hospital for cholera and plague patients. Destroyed by fire in 1772, it was rebuilt by a member of the same lineage, Manuel de Ciaves, in 1800. It is one of the most elegant in the city, with a classic feel evident in the columns of its bimah.
Etz Hayim Synagogue
This synagogue is not currently in use and in recent years has undergone major restoration, as it was in a state of disrepair. Now, however, it stands as a living testament to the first Jews in the city, since according to various documents this is where the oldest synagogue, from the Byzantine period, was located. Its current appearance reflects Sephardic central-plan constructions and a colonnaded structure where the tebah was located.
La Sinyora Synagogue (or Signora Giveret)
This evocatively named synagogue refers to its founder, Donna Gracia Mendes, an important Portuguese Jewish woman and philanthropist who commissioned the temple in the 16th century. Its current appearance dates back to the mid-19th century, when it had to be restored after a dreadful fire. At that time, the inspiration was Italian, with beautiful burgundy carpets and tapestries contrasting with an elegant ensemble of columns, arcades and ceilings in white or light tones.
Shalom Synagogue, or El Kal de la Tromba
The fourth of Izmir’s Sephardic synagogues is Shalom, also known as El Kal de la Tromba, founded in the early 17th century in the time of Rabbi Hayim Eskapa or Escapa, a descendant of a Castilian Jewish family established in Thessaloniki. This synagogue miraculously survived the fire that damaged the city in 1841, and today it features a beautiful combination of austere stone columns, wooden coffered ceilings with geometric decoration, and a hejal covered with a refined tapestry.
